Why EICRs Fail: The 5 Problems I Find Most Often
Most EICRs that fail do so for one of five reasons:
holes in the consumer unit
heat damage at cooker or shower connections
no RCD protection
earth bonding that’s missing or doesn’t pass testing
a fault in a ring circuit
None of these are rare, and most can be fixed in a day. Below I’ve listed what each one means, why it fails, and real examples from recent inspections in Redhill, Horley, Reigate, Crawley and Lingfield.
Mark Summerton, NAPIT-accredited electrician, City & Guilds 2391-52
What does it mean when an EICR fails?
An EICR (Electrical Installation Condition Report) is a full inspection and test of your wiring, consumer unit, sockets, switches and fittings. Anything I find gets a code:
C1: Danger present. There’s a risk of injury right now, and I’ll make it safe before I leave.
C2: Potentially dangerous. It’s not an immediate danger but needs fixing urgently.
C3: Improvement recommended. It doesn’t meet current standards but isn’t unsafe.
FI: Further investigation needed. Something needs looking at more closely before it can be coded.
If the report has any C1, C2 or FI, the overall result is unsatisfactory, which is what people mean by a “failed” EICR. A report with only C3s still passes.
The 5 most common reasons an EICR fails
1. Holes in the consumer unit
A consumer unit (fuse board) should be fully enclosed. Missing blanking plates, broken covers or gaps where cables enter can leave live parts within reach of fingers, or a child’s fingers. It’s one of the simplest faults to fix and one of the most common I find.
Recent job, Redhill: The consumer unit had holes that gave access to live parts. The same property also had cables that weren’t secured along their runs, and trailing cables that could easily be damaged. All three went on the report, and the EICR failed.
2. Heat damage at cooker and shower connections
Cookers and electric showers draw a lot of current. If a connection works loose, it heats up every time the appliance is used. Over time that scorches the switch, melts the cable insulation, and can start a fire. You’ll often see brown or black marks around the switch, or the plastic looks melted.
Recent jobs:
Crawley: heat damage at the cooker connection.
Horley: an RCBO in the consumer unit was heat-damaged because of a loose neutral connection. From the outside it looked fine. The damage only showed once the board was opened up.
3. No RCD protection
An RCD is the safety device that cuts the power in a fraction of a second if current leaks to earth, for example through a person. It’s what stops a shock from becoming fatal. Older installations often have no RCD at all, or only cover some circuits.
Recent job, Reigate (shop): There was no RCD protection, and the consumer unit was plastic and sat in the only escape route from the basement. If a plastic board catches fire, it can block the one way out. That’s why current regulations require metal consumer units in homes, and why the location mattered so much here.
4. Earth bonding that’s missing or doesn’t pass
Main bonding cables link your gas and water pipes to the main earth. If a fault makes a pipe live, the bonding keeps it at a safe level. Bonding can be missing altogether, too thin, or connected but not good enough.
Recent job, Crawley: The bonding was connected, but when I tested it the reading didn’t meet the required 0.05 ohms. A cable can look right and still fail on the meter, which is why an EICR involves testing as well as looking.
5. A continuity fault on a ring circuit
Most socket circuits in UK homes are “ring finals”: the cable runs out from the consumer unit, round the sockets and back again in a loop. If the loop is broken somewhere, perhaps by a loose connection behind a socket, half the cable can end up carrying the full load. It can overheat with no outward sign.
You can’t spot this by looking. It only shows up when the circuit is tested end to end, which is a standard part of every EICR I carry out.
Other faults from recent inspections
These are from real inspections over the last few months:
Location | What failed |
|---|---|
Redhill | Holes in the consumer unit, unsecured cable runs, trailing cables |
Horley | Heat-damaged RCBO from a loose neutral; corroded bathroom light fitting with the wrong IP rating |
Reigate (shop) | No RCD protection; plastic consumer unit in the only escape route from the basement |
Lingfield | RCD didn't trip within the required time; worn socket contacts showing signs of overheating; cracked shaver socket |
Crawley | Bonding failed to reach the required 0.05 ohms; heat damage at the cooker connection |
Two of these are worth explaining:
Bathroom light fittings need an IP rating (protection against water) that suits where they are. Fit the wrong one and moisture gets in, causing the corrosion I found in Horley.
An RCD that’s slow to trip is almost as bad as having no RCD. In Lingfield the RCD was there, but it didn’t trip fast enough when tested, so it couldn’t be relied on.
What happens after a failed EICR?
If you’re a landlord
As a landlord you must have any C1, C2 or FI items fixed within 28 days, or sooner if the report says so. Then you need written confirmation from your electrician that the work is done. Send a copy to your tenant and to the local council within 28 days of the work being completed.
If you’re a homeowner
There’s no legal deadline for homeowners. But a C1 or C2 means something in your home could hurt someone, so I’d always recommend getting it sorted promptly. If you’re selling, buyers and their surveyors will often ask about it anyway.
In most cases the fix is quick: tightening and replacing damaged connections, adding blanking plates, upgrading bonding or fitting RCD protection. Where the consumer unit itself is the problem, a consumer unit upgrade usually clears several items at once.
How to give your EICR the best chance of passing
There are a few things you can check yourself before I arrive:
Look at your consumer unit. Are there any gaps, missing covers or cracks?
Check cooker and shower switches for brown marks, melted plastic or a burning smell.
Press the test button on your RCD (marked “T”). It should switch off straight away. If it doesn’t, or there’s no test button at all, let me know.
Check sockets and switches for cracks, scorch marks or anything that feels warm.
Clear access to the consumer unit, meter and under-stairs cupboard so the inspection runs smoothly.
Don’t try to fix anything inside the consumer unit yourself. Just note what you’ve seen and tell me on the day. If you’re not sure what consumer unit you have or where to start, we have a Free Checker that help diagnose a suitable solution for any problems you may have.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most common reason for an EICR to fail?
In my experience it’s damage or gaps in the consumer unit and heat damage at high-power connections like cookers and showers. Missing RCD protection is a close third, especially in older properties.
Does a C3 code mean my EICR has failed?
No. C3 means an improvement is recommended, but the installation is still safe to use. Only C1, C2 or FI codes make a report unsatisfactory.
How long do I have to fix a failed EICR as a landlord?
28 days, or sooner if the report says so. You then need written confirmation that the work is done, and must send a copy to your tenant and the local council within 28 days.
Can a failed EICR be fixed on the same day?
Often, yes. Loose connections, blanking plates and damaged accessories can usually be fixed straight away. Bigger jobs like a new consumer unit are normally booked in within a few days.
How much does an EICR cost?
EICRs start from £160. The price depends on the size of the property and the number of circuits. See EICR prices and book.
Book an EICR in Horley, Redhill, Reigate or Crawley
If your EICR is due, or you’ve had an unsatisfactory report and need the remedial work done, I can help. I’m NAPIT-accredited and cover Horley, Redhill, Reigate, Crawley and the surrounding areas. Book your EICR or get in touch.
